The wine list at Thorn Panel Line has never been long. We carry between six and eight bottles at any one time, and the list changes when a wine runs out. We do not reorder the same bottle twice if something more interesting is available. Most of what we carry comes from Shiga prefecture, for reasons that are practical as much as philosophical.
Why Shiga ¶
Shiga is the prefecture directly east of Kyoto, bordering Lake Biwa. It has a small but serious natural wine scene, with producers working in a low-intervention style that suits the food we serve. The wines are not widely distributed, which means they are not expensive relative to their quality. We can buy directly from two producers in Nagahama and one in Moriyama, which keeps the supply reliable and the conversation direct.
What We Look For ¶
We are looking for wines that do not compete with the food. The miso-cured ham and the smoked duck breast have strong, specific flavours. A wine with heavy oak or high tannin will fight those flavours rather than sit alongside them. We prefer wines with good acidity, a clean finish, and enough texture to hold up to fat. The piquette-style white from Nagahama that we started carrying in April is a good example: light, slightly hazy, with a citrus note that works well with the aged gouda.
The Loire Bottles ¶
We carry two or three bottles from the Loire Valley at any given time. These are wines we have found through a small importer in Osaka who specialises in low-intervention French producers. They tend to be Muscadet or Chenin Blanc-based, which gives them the acidity we look for. They are also a useful reference point for customers who are more familiar with French natural wine than with Japanese producers.
Buying a Bottle to Take Away ¶
All wines on the list are available by the bottle to take away. We do not mark up the take-away price relative to the glass price. If you are putting together a provisions box for a garden party and want to add a bottle, ask at the counter. We will suggest something that travels well and suits the food in the box.
What We Do Not Carry ¶
We do not carry beer, spirits, or sake at the counter. This is a deliberate choice. The food we serve is specific, and the wine list is chosen to complement it. Adding a broader drinks range would require more storage and more attention than we can give it without compromising the food. The cold-brew barley tea and the house shrubs are there for customers who prefer no alcohol.
The current wine list is on the counter board. Ask at the counter for a taste before committing to a glass or a bottle.